
The Flavors of Rome: Myths and Traditions Behind the Dishes
Roman cuisine is deeply rooted in the history of the Roman Empire and has evolved over the centuries, preserving a rich and varied culinary tradition. The cauponae, the ancient taverns, were the centre of social and gastronomic life, offering simple but tasty dishes prepared with the ingredients available in the Roman countryside: herbs, vegetables, sheep, goat and pork. During the reign of Emperor Tiberius, the gastronome Marcus Gavio Apicius compiled “De Re Coquinaria”, one of the first collections of Roman recipes, testifying to the importance of cooking in the culture of the time. In the centuries that followed, the Roman gastronomic tradition was enriched by the influence of the Jewish community, which introduced iconic dishes such as artichokes alla Giudia. Another important turning point came at the end of the 19th century with the opening of the Testaccio abattoir, which promoted the use of the “fifth quarter”, the less noble parts of cattle. This led to the creation of famous dishes such as coda alla vaccinara, trippa alla romana, which still today represent the authentic and popular soul of Roman cuisine. These dishes, born of necessity and creativity, have become symbols of Rome’s culinary tradition. Among the most popular, well-known and sought-after dishes of Roman cuisine are first courses such as amatriciana, carbonara or cacio e pepe.
Not everyone knows, however, that these dishes have only recently become part of Roman culture: in fact, both amatriciana and cacio e pepe have a history far from Rome, and carbonara did not appear in Roman cookbooks until the 1950s, with a recipe very different from the one we know today. Amatriciana, included in the list of traditional agricultural products of Lazio, is considered a speciality of Lazio cuisine because the town of Amatrice, where the recipe originated, passed from Abruzzo to Lazio in 1927 and is linked to the history of Abruzzo in its original white version, called gricia. The pasta was certainly linked to the transhumant shepherds, who had few ingredients at their disposal: among these were certainly guanciale, which was well preserved, and pecorino, which they made from sheep’s milk. At the end of the 18th century, tomato was added to this recipe, which had already been used for a few decades in the neighbouring Kingdom of Naples and soon spread to the areas of Abruzzo and then Lazio. The arrival of this pasta in Rome is due to the fact that many of the city’s innkeepers and tractors were originally from the Amatrice area: the term “matriciano” soon came to mean “innkeeper with a kitchen”. Amatriciana became popular in Rome, where spaghetti was preferred to bucatini, and became a classic of Roman cuisine, even though it originated elsewhere.
The story of carbonara is even more incredible: it is actually a recipe that was born during the war, thanks to the food rations of American soldiers, which always included eggs and bacon. The Romans were able to combine these ingredients with other typical ingredients such as pecorino cheese and pasta, and soon the famous carbonara was born. The recipe was first published in the United States in Vittles and Vice, an illustrated guide to restaurants in the Chicago area, “An extraordinary guide to what’s cooking on Chicago’s Near North Side”, compiled by Patricia Brontè, while the first recipe published in Italy was in August 1954 in the magazine La Cucina Italiana. This recipe also included other ingredients such as Gruyere cheese, pepper and garlic. In the 1950s, many restaurants in Rome also offered modified recipes with bacon, ham and even sautĂ©ed mushrooms. One of the oldest known dishes in Rome is supplì, which appears in some paintings from the late 19th century. The name of this fried rice ball with sauce is said to derive from the French surprise, referring to the surprise of the stringy mozzarella inside the supplì. It is therefore likely that the recipe was introduced in the first half of the 19th century during the occupation of Rome by Napoleonic soldiers.
Rome’s Best-Kept Secrets: 5 Hidden Churches Waiting to be Discovered
Rome, with its extraordinary historical and cultural richness, hides among its streets and squares some lesser known but fascinating jewels: churches that, though partly hidden from the eyes of tourists, offer a unique experience of beauty and tranquility. Let us discover together five of these secret churches, authentic treasures that enrich the spiritual and architectural heritage of the Eternal City.
S. Quattro Coronati
The Basilica of the Saints Quattro Coronati, located in the Celio district of Rome, is a very ancient Roman church that hides surprises behind its austere façade. The church took on its present form between the 11th and 12th centuries, with Carolingian and medieval adaptations. According to tradition, the titular saints, Castorius, Symphronianus, Claudius and Nicostratus, were Christian martyrs who refused to carve pagan idols under Diocletian. The basilica contains a valuable cloister and the Chapel of St Sylvester, famous for its 13th century frescoes depicting the legends of Pope Sylvester and Emperor Constantine. The church, which still houses an Augustinian monastery, also has Gothic frescoes and an interesting Baroque organ.
S. Maria dell’Anima
The church of Santa Maria dell’Anima in Rome, founded in the 14th century as the oratory of the German Hospice, is the national church of the German-speaking Catholic community. Rebuilt for the 1500 Jubilee and consecrated in 1542, it combines Gothic and Renaissance elements, with a façade by Andrea Sansovino. Among the most important works are the altar-piece by Giulio Romano, the tomb of Pope Adrian VI and the chapel of the Brandenburg Margraves with frescoes by Francesco Salviati. Also worthy of note are the “Miracles of San Bennone” and the “PietĂ ” by Lorenzetto.
S. Bernardo alle Terme
The Church of San Bernardo alle Terme, located in Piazza San Bernardo in Rome, is a fascinating example of architectural adaptation. Built between the late 16th and 17th centuries inside a spheristerium of the Baths of Diocletian, it was dedicated to St Bernard of Clairvaux by the Countess Caterina Sforza Cesarini. With a large cylindrical dome similar to that of the Pantheon, it is notable for its characteristic ‘windowlessness’, illuminated only by an oculus. Inside there are eight Baroque statues of saints by Camillo Mariani and frescoes by Giovanni Odazzi. The church preserves an extraordinary architectural and decorative harmony, exemplary of the 17th century style.
S. Ignatius
The Church of St. Ignatius in Rome was built in 1626 to replace the old Church of the Annunziata, which was no longer sufficient for the students of the Roman College. Dedicated to Ignatius of Loyola, founder of the Society of Jesus, its construction was financed by Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi. Famous for its magnificent fresco by Andrea Pozzo, painted in 1685, the ceiling of the church depicts the Glory of Saint Ignatius with an extraordinary illusion of perspective. The trompe l’oeil technique creates the impression of a heavenly architecture, placing the viewer in an imaginary temple superimposed on the real one.
S. Maria della Pace
The church of Santa Maria della Pace, located in the square of the same name in Rome, is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture designed by Pietro da Cortona between 1656 and 1667. The façade, with its bold theatrical design, juts forward and fits into a large trapezoidal space created by the demolition of pre-existing buildings. Inside, the church contains splendid Renaissance and Baroque chapels, including the Chigi Chapel with frescoes by Raphael and Timoteo Viti. The cloister, designed by Bramante, is one of the most important Renaissance works in Rome and hosts temporary exhibitions. Santa Maria della Pace is an extraordinary example of how architecture can combine history and art.